SEPP - Siberian Evaluation Performance Project Standard
Revised Standard for the Siberian Huksy (Not official SHCA Standard)
Written By: Roland "Doc" Lombard, DVM; Charles Belford, DVM; Richard Moulton
Co-ordinator: Vincent Buoniello
Written By: Roland "Doc" Lombard, DVM; Charles Belford, DVM; Richard Moulton
Co-ordinator: Vincent Buoniello
General Appearance: The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized working dog, quick and light on his feet and free and graceful in action. His well-balanced and well-furred body, erect ears and brush tail suggest his Northern heritage. His head presents a finely chiseled, foxlike appearance, and his eyes have a keen and friendly expression. His characteristic gait is tireless and almost effortless when free or on a loose leash, but showing great strength when pulling. The trot is brisk and smooth and quite fast. Generally bitches are smaller than dogs, averaging two inches in height less and ten pounds less in weight, but length of body may be longer than males. Siberians range in build from moderately compact (but never "cobby") to moderately rangy: in all builds the bone must be medium, the back powerful, never slack from excessive length.
Head: Skull: Of medium size and in proportion to the body; slightly rounded on top and tapering gradually from the widest point to the eyes.
Muzzle: Of medium length; that is the distance from the tip of the nose to the stop is equal to the distance from the stop to the occiput. The stop is well defined and the bridge of the nose is straight from the stop to the tip. The muzzle is of medium width, tapering gradually to the nose, with the tip neither pointed nor square. The lips are well pigmented and close fitting, teeth closing in a scissors bit. Faults: Head clumsy or heavy, muzzle bulky (like Malamutes), skull too wide between ears, snipiness, coarseness, insufficient stop, and bite other than scissors. If muzzle is too short, cold air is not properly warmed before reaching the sinuses and lungs.
Ears: Of medium size, erect, close-fitting, set high on head and well covered with hair on the inside. There is an arch at the back of the ears. Ears are up to one-third taller than width at base, and moderately rounded at tips. When dog is at attention, ears are usually carried practically parallel on top of head. Faults: Ears too large in proportion to head, too wide-set; low-set; not strongly erect, too pointed or short like a Malamute.
Eyes: Almond shaped, moderately spaced and set a trifle obliquely. The expression is keen, but friendly; interested and even mischievous. Eyes may be brown or blue in color; one of each or particolored are acceptable. Faults: Eyes set too obliquely; set too close together.
Nose: Black in gray, tan or black dogs; liver in copper dogs; may be flesh colored in pure white dogs, but not pink. The pink-streaked "snow nose" is acceptable.
Body
Neck: Medium in length, moderately arched and carried proudly erect when dog is standing. When moving at a trot, the neck is extened so that the head is carried slightly forward. Faults: Neck too short and thick, neck too long, too well arched, causing dog to run with head up, this shortening the reach.
Neck: Medium in length, moderately arched and carried proudly erect when dog is standing. When moving at a trot, the neck is extened so that the head is carried slightly forward. Faults: Neck too short and thick, neck too long, too well arched, causing dog to run with head up, this shortening the reach.
Shoulders: Scapula should be at an angle of 30 degrees to 40 degrees, the ideal being 35 degrees. There is a lower scapular forward and rear rotation of as much as 15 degrees. The scapula, humerus, and pelvis should be of equal length. Spacing between the shoulders at the withers should be at least two inches. The upper arm angles slightly backward from point of shoulder to elbow and is never perpendicular to the ground. The muscles and ligaments holding the shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well developed. Faults: Straight shoulders, loose shoulders.
Chest: The deepest point should be just behind and the slightly above the elbows. Faults: Too narrow, barrel, too deep.
Back: The back is strong with a slight slope from the withers to the croup. There is a slight arch (wheelback) at the end of the rib cage - positioned above forward one-third part of loin. Length of back: keel bone (breast-bone) to end of croup is approximately 10 to 15 percent longer than height (ground to withers). Back should not be cobby or slack from excessive length. The loin is taut and lean, narrower than the rib cage with a definite tuck-up. The croup slopes away from the spine at an angle of approximately 35 degrees. The correct slope of the pelvis is essential as the power from the foot, traveling through the limb to the femur, has to be transmitted through the pelvis to the spine in as direct a line as possible. Slope of pelvis should be 20 degrees to 35 degrees for best effects. Faults: Weak or slack back, roached back, cobby, flat croup.
Legs and Feet
Forelegs: When standing and viewed from the front, the legs are moderately spaced, parallel and straight, with elbows close to the body and turned neither in nor out. When standing, the front feet should be angled outward at about 10 degrees (toe out) - this is very important because when the dog moves and his feet swing inward under the center of gravity, the action will be off his center toes, with the small toes being used merely for balance on the turns. Feet that are straight ahead when standing cannot be rotated properly when swung inward, causing the action to come off one center toe and one small toe and providing less efficient action. Viewed from the side, pasterns are slightly slanted 10 degrees to 15 degrees with pastern joint strong but flexible. Bone is medium but never heavy (like the Malamute). Length of the leg from the elbow to ground is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the top of the withers. Dewclaws on forelegs may be removed. Faults: Weak pasterns, too heavy or too light bone, too narrow or too wide in the front, out at the elbows, feet straight ahead when standing (no toe out).
Forelegs: When standing and viewed from the front, the legs are moderately spaced, parallel and straight, with elbows close to the body and turned neither in nor out. When standing, the front feet should be angled outward at about 10 degrees (toe out) - this is very important because when the dog moves and his feet swing inward under the center of gravity, the action will be off his center toes, with the small toes being used merely for balance on the turns. Feet that are straight ahead when standing cannot be rotated properly when swung inward, causing the action to come off one center toe and one small toe and providing less efficient action. Viewed from the side, pasterns are slightly slanted 10 degrees to 15 degrees with pastern joint strong but flexible. Bone is medium but never heavy (like the Malamute). Length of the leg from the elbow to ground is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the top of the withers. Dewclaws on forelegs may be removed. Faults: Weak pasterns, too heavy or too light bone, too narrow or too wide in the front, out at the elbows, feet straight ahead when standing (no toe out).
Hindquarters: When standing and viewed from the rear, the hind legs are moderately spaced and parallel. The upper thighs are well muscled and powerful, the stifles well bent, the hock joint well-defined, and hocks in balance with rest of hind legs. Dewclaws, if any, are to be removed. Faults: Straight stifles, cow hocks, too narrow or too wide in the rear, sickle hocks.
Feet: Oval in shape, but not long, toes well arched. The paws are medium in size, compact and well furred between the toes, and pads are tough and well cushioned. Pad color in order of preference; lemon, black, mottled (lemon and black), orange (pink not desirable). Faults: Flat or splayed toes, paws too large and clumsy, paws too small and delicate, cat foot, thin or pink-colored pads.
Tail: The well-furred tail of fox-brush shape is set on just below the level of the topline, and is usually carried over the back in a gracious sickle curve when the dog is at attention. When carried up, the tail does not curl to either side of the body, nor does it snap against the back. A tight or snapped tail usually indicates incorrect slope to the pelvis. A trailing tail is normal for the dog when working or in repose. Hair on the tail is of medium length and approximately the same length on top, sides and bottom, giving the appearance of a round brush. Faults: A snapped or tightly curled tail, tail set too high or too low.
Gait: The Siberian Husky's characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless. The most efficient gait for the Siberian is the lope and the gallop. He is quick and light on his feet, and when in the show ring should be gaited on a loose lead at a moderately fast trot, exhibiting good reach in the forequarters and good drive in the hindquarters. When viewed from the front to rear while moving at a walk, the Siberian Husky does not single-track. But as the speed increases the legs gradually angle inward until the pads are falling on a line directly under the longitudinal center of the boby. As the pad marks converge, the forelegs and hindlegs are carried straight forward with neither elbows or stifles turned in or out. Each hind leg moves in the path of the foreleg on the same side. While the dog is gaiting, the topline remains firm and level. Faults: Short, prancing or choppy gait, lumbering or rolling gait; crossing, crabbing.
Coat: The coat of the Siberian Husky is double and medium in length, giving a well-furred appearance, but is never so long as to obscure the clean-cut outline of the dog. The undercoat is soft and dense and of sufficient length to support the outer coat. The guard hairs of the outer coat are straight and somewhat smooth lying, never harsh nor standing straight out from the body. It should be noted that the absence of the undercoat during the shedding season is normal. Trimming of the whiskers and fur between the toes and around the feet to present a neater appearance is permissible. Trimming of the fur on any other part of the dog is not to be condoned and should be severely penalized. Faults: Long, rough or shaggy coat; texture too harsh or too silky; trimming of the coat, except as permitted above.
Color: All colors from black to pure white are allowed. A variety of markings on the head is common, including many striking patterns not found in other breeds.
Temperament: The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but also alert and outgoing. He does not display the possessive qualities of the guard dog, nor is he overly suspicious of strangers or aggressive with other dogs. Some measure of reserve and dignity may be expected in the mature dog. His intelligence, tractability, and eager disposition make him an agreeable companion and willing worker.
Size: Height: Dogs, 21 to 23 1/2 inches at the withers. Bitches, 20 to 22 inches at the withers. Weight: Dogs, 40 to 55 pounds. Bitches, 35 to 45 pounds. Weight is in proportion to the whole dog. The measurements mentioned above represent the extreme height and weight limits, with no preference given to either extreme. Overweight dogs should be penalized. Disqualification: Dogs over 23 1/2 inches; bitches over 22 inches.
Summary: The most important breed characteristics of the Siberian Husky are medium size, moderate bone, well-balanced proportions, ease and freedom of movement, proper coat, pleasing head and ears, correct tail, and good disposition. Any appearance of excessive bone or weight, constricted or clumsy gait, or long, rough coat should be penalized. The Siberian Husky never appears so heavy or coarse as to suggest a freighting animal. In both sexes the Siberian Husky gives the appearance of being capable of great endurance and speed. In addition to the faults already noted, obvious structural faults common to all breeds are as undesirable in the Siberian Husky as in any other breed, even though they are not specifically mentioned herein.